The Fenton Historical Society in Jamestown has produced three excellent publications that document some of the past glory of the Chautauqua region. This article is the last of a three part series featuring these books which cover phenomena almost extinct today: Steamboats, Hotels and Trolleys.

There was a time, about a century ago, when the area around Chautauqua Lake was one of the most fashionable vacation destinations in the world. For over a generation, before the widespread ownership of automobiles, our area was the host to the nation's rich and famous. It is no coincidence that the only great hotel continuing service, as it did over a century ago, is the Athenaeum at Chautauqua Institution, where the use of the automobile has always been controlled and restricted.

Lakewood shoreline in 1893 with Kent House (left) and the Stirlingworth Hotel (right).

The reason this area became the premier vacation spot at the turn of the century was due to four significant circumstances. Obviously, one was the isolation and beauty of Chautauqua Lake. Near the center of several northeast industrial cities including Buffalo, Erie, Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Chicago and New York, the Chautauqua region was well positioned to be an accessible lake resort with clean air, far from the gritty heat of a summer day in the city with no air-conditioning.

Lakewood Station on the Erie Railroad, connecting New York and Chicago to Chauauqua Lake.

Another significant contribution to the region's success as a tourist destination came from Chautauqua Institute. From 1874, when it was founded as the Chautauqua Assembly, the Institute has been an able promoter of the summer season for our region. It attracted artists, musicians, writers and intellectuals; and they, in turn, attracted others. Namely, the rich and upper middle class, with extra money and leisure time.

But the beauty of the lake area and the attraction of the Institution were not enough in themselves to generate the explosive growth of hotels and recreational facilities that became the foundation of a summer industry here in Chautauqua. The missing elements were the means to bring people here from distant cities, and to serve them once here. Those two ingredients came in the form of railroad development after the Civil War and the popularity of the lake steamers. The railroads brought people here, and the steamships were a pleasant way to access every point of interest that dotted the lakeshore. (See the previous two Gobbler articles in this series--Part I: The Steamers" and Part II: The Trolleys").

At the end of the Victorian Era there were mainline rail connections to the Erie, Pennsylvania and New York Central Railroads here. Steamers and trolleys made connections to the railroad stations and brought visitors to every recreational and tourist attraction dotting the shore of Chautauqua Lake. In that environment, for a brief while, the great hotels flourished like rare orchids.

The first area to be developed extensively was Lakewood. Cowing House was built in 1870, and by 1875 Lakeview House and Kent House provided the summer lodging, recreation and social events that were to be expected at the most famous resorts in the country. Overnight sleeping cars from Chicago and New York arrived at the Lakewood depot with trunks bound for the hotels on horse drawn wagons.

West side of the first Kent House in Lakewood, built in 1875.

The greatest hotel in Lakewood, The Sterlingworth, was built in 1889 on the site of Lakewood House (and what is now the Lakewood Village Park). The Sterlingworth was designed with traditional style but with all the modern convenience of the time, including electric lighting and elevator service provided by its own dynamos. The Sterlingworth offered a grand ballroom that was one of the largest in western New York. There was direct trolley service from Jamestown to its front door. Due to operational costs the hotel went bankrupt within six years and burned to the ground only fourteen years after opening its doors.

East side of The Stirlingworth in Lakewood, built in 1889. It is now the site of Lakewood Village Park.

Bemus Point has always been a strategic location, being at the midpoint and narrowest spot on Chautauqua Lake. Since 1811 there has been continuous ferry service between Stow on the west and Bemus on the east. Bemus Point was a favorite spot for fisherman and tourists even before there were any hotel accommodations there. Once hotel development took off in Lakewood, the villagers of

Bemus were quick to follow. In 1871 Felton House was open to the public in Bemus. The hotel ran along the shore for 150 feet from what is now the Surf Club towards the ferry landing. In 1872 Andrew Jackson Pickard bought the hotel and renamed it Chautauqua Lake House. Business was so profitable that by 1875 a hundred foot addition was added along Lakeside Drive. The hotel had a ballroom on the third floor and first and second story porches extending the length of the building offering a view of stunning sunsets across the lake. Unlike other hotels, it became a popular spot for local residents as well as visitors and was opened year round.

By 1887 rail transportation was developed along the east side of the lake between Mayville and Jamestown with a station in Bemus. Development at Bemus Point began to flourish.

Northeast corner of Pickard House at Bemus Point built in 1889. It is now the site of the Surf Club.

In 1888 the Chautauqua Lake Hotel caught on fire. The village had insufficient equipment to stop the flames. Firefighters from Jamestown arrived two hours after the flames began and could only dampen the smoldering ashes of the ruin.

Pickard was not daunted. He began rebuilding over the ashes and was open for the summer season of 1889. The new Pickard House was four stories high with accommodations for 150 guests. The building stretched 125 feet down lakeside Drive and was distinguished by an octagonal tower at the corner of Main Street and Lakeside that featured a fourth floor observation deck. The Pickard House was well managed and remained profitable through World War I and the 1920's. It was finally demolished in 1930 after the beginning of the Great Depression.

Besides the Pickard, other hotels were built in Bemus along Lakeside Drive. Next to the Pickard House, A. W. Rappole built the Colombian Inn in 1893 (named after the Chicago World's Fair). The Colombian Inn was demolished at the time Pickard House was, in 1930. At the same time Rappole put up the Colombian, "Mep" Mason built Mason House right next door. Mason House was renamed the

Browning Hotel in 1898. The Browning continued in operation until the beginning of World War II. In 1940 it advertised that "The Ole Hotel Browning...the Queen of the Shore Taverns... served Chinese Dishes, Chow Mien and hop Sueys". The Browning burned down in 1940.

Southwest corner of the first Hotel Lenhart at Bemus Point, built in 1879.

Along Lakeside Drive in Bemus, one hotel of the period continues in operation; The Hotel Lenhart. The Lenhart was built by Dr. John Lenhart in 1882. The doctor had a choice spot on the Point near the ferry landing. The original Hotel Lenhart burned in October, 1891 during the cleanup at the end of the season. By June 1st of 1892 a new hotel stood in its place. Dr. Lenhart passed the management to his daughter, Charlotte Johnston. Her descendants still manage the hotel today. The Hotel Lenhart's grand porch is fitted with several ancient rocking chairs for its guests to enjoy a shady spot on a hot August afternoon.

Point Chautauqua was the site chosen by the Baptist Church for a summer religious retreat similar to the Methodist's Chautauqua Assembly across the lake. The Baptist's formed a corporation to purchase over 100 acres of land and erect a hotel and tabernacle. In June of 1880 both buildings were ready for a new summer season.

Point Chautauqua in 1895 with the steramer Buckeye near the Grand Hotel (right).

The hotel lived up to its name; The Grand Hotel. Its size (300 feet long and five stories high) and its prominent location high above the lake made it an instant landmark. The Harston Tabernacle was grand in scale as well (190 x 150 feet). However, the religious and educational program of the Baptists failed in 1885 and Point Chautauqua was converted into a secular pleasure resort. The tabernacle was converted into a dance hall. Throughout the 1890's it was also the home to a summer theater.

In 1891 the Grand Hotel was renovated. The main house was painted straw color, the verandah white and the dome and roof finished in reddish brown. A 50 x100 foot amusement hall was added to the original hotel. In 1897 a railroad station was built on the Point Chautauqua grounds. For a brief time it was the most successful and profitable resort on the lake.

South side of the Grand Hotel at Point Chautuqua, built in 1879.

At the time, owner of the Grand Hotel was James Crate. But with two poor summer seasons in a row (1901 and 1902) and a huge maintenance cost, Crate conspired to set fire to the hotel at the end of the 1902 season. It was burned to the ground in a spectacular fire seen all around the lake on October 17th.

There were hotels ringing the lake, from Mayville to Fluvanna. Some were large, and others, like Sheldon Hall, were built originally as homes. After a successful law practice and term as a congressman from the 31st district of New York, Porter Sheldon began a career as a manufacturer of photographic paper. With his wealth he built Sheldon Hall in 1901 as a lakeside summer home for his family. The family's sumptuous winter house still stands on Lakeview Avenue in Jamestown, and is used by Jamestown Community College for receptions.

Sheldon purchased the 52 acres of marshland in Greenhurst and trucked in 90,000 yards of gravel that created the great lawn for his summer house (see photo). Sheldon Hall was built to accompany 70 guests. There were several out buildings, including a 120 foot steel dock with a large boat house. The boathouse features a beautiful second story ballroom which is still intact. The family soon turned the Hall into a hotel operation. Porter died in 1908. After several years in the hotel business, Porter's son Ralph razed the original house and built another in its place for his own use. That house is maintained today as a delightful Bed & Breakfast, where my wife and I spent our honeymoon. If you decide to visit, ask for Ralph's Room. It's the best in the house, with a private second story porch.

West side of Sheldon Hall, facing the lake, in Greenhurst, built in 1900.

The great hotels of Chautauqua Lake had three enemies that eventually destroyed them; the growing popularity of the family car provided new destinations off the beaten track, the short summer season here was notoriously unpredictable (only 5-10 weeks in length), and high operating costs made a fully programmed resort hotel unprofitable. In the end, over half of the 19 great hotels that ringed the lake were destroyed by fire. Only two, the Athenaeum and the Lenhart, remain in operation. Those that didn't burn were demolished. The great hotel era of a century ago may be gone, but some of the ambiance of that time can be enjoyed at The Athenaeum and the Hotel Lenhart.

Try them before they are gone too. Have a meal and then sit for a while out on a great porch at sunset. You'll experience a unique sense of time and place that may soon disappear.

We congratulate the Fenton Museum for its superb publication "Chautauqua Lake Hotels", by Helen G. Ebersole, which was the source for this article. We urge those interested to visit the Fenton's gift shop and purchase a copy. You may reach them at:

The Fenton Museum

Fenton Mansion

67 Washington Street

Jamestown, NY, 14701

(716) 664-6256

Hours: 10 am to 4 pm Monday through Saturday